Anyway, we were able to get a 5-day unlimited couple's travel pass, which allowed us to take nearly 40 different trains for a very reasonable price. Since we are pretty poor, most of these trips consisted of getting up at 6 am, 3-5 hours on trains, 5-6 hours of sightseeing, and 3-5 hours back on trains, where we again got a free night's rest in beautiful Ladenburg. Our first stop was Wittenburg, home to Martin Luther and the cradle of the Protestant Reformation.
Since Wittenburg (also called Lutherstadt now in Luther's honor) was the farthest away of all our destinations, we had the least sightseeing time there, but there's not a whole lot to see here: the Luther Museum/Home is extremely extensive and informative, and there are two churches to see - the City Church where Luther preached, and the Castle Church, where he famously nailed the 95 theses on the wall and was later buried.
The City Church, where Luther preached and was married.We went to the museum first and then saw both churches, which is the order I would recommend: the museum takes you step-by-step through Luther's life, such that seeing the churches afterwards becomes a very powerful experience.
I was very curious to see how the Luther museum treated the narrative of Luther's life. The traditional Protestant story I heard growing up portrays the Catholics of his time as something akin to demons, and Luther as some sort of angelic crusader against them. Meanwhile, the revisionist version I heard in college focused more on the political entities involved, emphasizing the fact that Luther's movement was only successful because powerful people decided they could use him for their own ends.
As usual with polar extremes of a story, neither is wholly true, but I don't think I really understood the middle ground of Luther's life until I went through the museum. It carefully presents the beginning of his struggle with the papacy, and we see that he is indeed no divine being. However, Pope Leo and Archbishop Albrecht do come across as pretty horrible people (mostly through primary sources, and some of their own words) focused on their own wealth and reputations above all else. Certainly, Luther would have been just another John Hus if the elector of Saxony hadn't stepped into the fray, leading to the inevitable Protestant-Catholic wars and feuds which would continue for centuries, but I don't think that tarnishes the moment of Luther's big decision to criticize the biggest institution in the world essentially by himself. The Pope had legions of theologians to support him - Luther went up against them alone because he was convinced that the truth did not allow him to do otherwise.
The museum portrays Luther as an extremely conflicted, brilliant man desirous of absolute truth in a world full of compromises and hypocrites. Once the theological conflict became a physical conflict, Luther wondered if it would have been better if he'd just been quiet. Yet he knew that he had to speak the truth as God gave him to see the truth. Despite decrying the Catholic practice of veneration of saints as idolatry, he continued to hold the Virgin Mary in high regard for the rest of his life. Not a simple character, that Luther. If you can't tell, I highly recommend the museum to anyone vaguely interested in church history.
Jumping in front of the '95 Theses' door at the Castle Church.
I was very curious to see how the Luther museum treated the narrative of Luther's life. The traditional Protestant story I heard growing up portrays the Catholics of his time as something akin to demons, and Luther as some sort of angelic crusader against them. Meanwhile, the revisionist version I heard in college focused more on the political entities involved, emphasizing the fact that Luther's movement was only successful because powerful people decided they could use him for their own ends.
As usual with polar extremes of a story, neither is wholly true, but I don't think I really understood the middle ground of Luther's life until I went through the museum. It carefully presents the beginning of his struggle with the papacy, and we see that he is indeed no divine being. However, Pope Leo and Archbishop Albrecht do come across as pretty horrible people (mostly through primary sources, and some of their own words) focused on their own wealth and reputations above all else. Certainly, Luther would have been just another John Hus if the elector of Saxony hadn't stepped into the fray, leading to the inevitable Protestant-Catholic wars and feuds which would continue for centuries, but I don't think that tarnishes the moment of Luther's big decision to criticize the biggest institution in the world essentially by himself. The Pope had legions of theologians to support him - Luther went up against them alone because he was convinced that the truth did not allow him to do otherwise.
The museum portrays Luther as an extremely conflicted, brilliant man desirous of absolute truth in a world full of compromises and hypocrites. Once the theological conflict became a physical conflict, Luther wondered if it would have been better if he'd just been quiet. Yet he knew that he had to speak the truth as God gave him to see the truth. Despite decrying the Catholic practice of veneration of saints as idolatry, he continued to hold the Virgin Mary in high regard for the rest of his life. Not a simple character, that Luther. If you can't tell, I highly recommend the museum to anyone vaguely interested in church history.
Jumping in front of the '95 Theses' door at the Castle Church.
Why was I not informed about this blog? I found the address on a tiny piece of paper next to the computer, which Mom had written. I am both shocked and offended. However, I will now follow you forever!
ReplyDeleteSpencer - I sent out a big update e-mail when we moved here, and it had a link to the blog. I guess I shouldn't be surprised that my own brother couldn't make it through one of my e-mails...
ReplyDeleteThough your family may turn their backs on you, blog on, my friend. There are still a few Protestant reformers who enjoy your observations. When you get home you can print out your musings and nail them to a set of doors on the Pittsfield courthouse.
ReplyDelete